Cities of the Camino Part 6: Bilbao, Spain
where to stay, where to eat, what to do
This post is part of our series on ‘Cities of the Camino de Santiago’ sharing our experiences of where to eat, where to stay and what to do in the major cities along the Camino de Santiago. We’ll be publishing another on San Sebastian here soon. As you read this though we’re preparing for a long weekend in Cairo, and we’ll be writing about that here too! ❤️
We hope this series will offer you practical tips and a sense of the real, vibrant culture of Spanish cities beyond the typical tourist spots. Whether you're planning your own Camino or just looking for a unique getaway, we hope these posts inspire you!
Earlier this year we decided to take a week long trip along the Camino del Norte with friends from Australia who were walking the whole journey from San Sebastian right through to Santiago de Compostela. Unfortunately we couldn’t spare the time off work for the full six-week walk this time, but we could manage five days walking from San Sebastian to Bilbao. Still, those five days were enough to leave us exhilarated and exhausted!
We started and ended our journey in Bilbao, staying one night in a hotel in the old town before traveling by local train across to San Sebastian. We then walked the five days back across the countryside of northern Spain, and spent three nights relaxing in the city before we flew home to the UK.
You can read more detail about our week on the Camino del Norte here:
But we’re here today to talk about Bilbao itself - whether you’re there on your own Camino de Santiago journey or just for a weekend break in beautiful northern Spain. Let’s dive in!
Bilbao, set in the heart of Spain's Basque Country, is a city that blends the old with the new almost effortlessly. Once an industrial powerhouse, Bilbao has transformed over recent decades into a vibrant hub of culture, art, and food. Its deep-rooted history stretches back to the Middle Ages, when it served as a bustling port town, vital for trade across the Iberian Peninsula and beyond. Today its cobblestone streets, lined with traditional Basque architecture, intertwine with contemporary design, most notably the iconic Guggenheim Museum - an emblem of the city's regeneration.
But Bilbao’s charm goes beyond its modern landmarks. The city has long been the cultural heart of the Basque people, fiercely independent and proud of their traditions. Strolling through the old town, Casco Viejo, we encountered centuries of history in the form of grand churches, vibrant markets, and pintxo bars offering the region’s signature tapas (but don’t call it that).
sleep
Our first night in Bilbao was a quick pit-stop in the city before traveling over to San Sebastian. We had struggled to find transport across to our Camino start point, and so hedged our bets by booking a hotel in the city before traveling the following morning. On balance, had we known that there was a San Sebastian bus that runs from Bilbao airport we might have booked that instead and had an extra night exploring San Sebastian. But hindsight is of course 20:20 as they say. And so our first night was spent in Hotel Ilunion, in the centre of Bilbao near the stadium. The location was perfect, and the room clean and well prepared.
On our return to Bilbao a few days later, we opted to stay in an Airbnb in the traditional Casco Viejo district. This Airbnb apartment was absolutely perfect for three and in a central yet quiet area, next to the bustling Mercado de la Ribera and the Cathedral. I don’t think we could have been better located to get a feel for what it’s like to live in Bilbao - a city we would most definitely return to.
eat
You should know by now that since walking the Camino de Santiago in 2022 we have a well-established cafe con leche habit. Our favourite time of day when traveling is that early morning walk out to grab coffee, picking up takeaways and pastries to take back to our apartment for whichever teenagers we happen to have with us on the trip. Our coffee spot of choice in Bilbao, just round the corner from our Airbnb, was the Barista Coffee School on Artekale where they also served delicious bread, cake and Bilbaoan pastries. We can also highly recommend Panaderia Bertiz, ARVO speciality coffee and the Bistro at the Guggenheim.
Bilbao's foodie scene is definitely a reflection of its rich Basque heritage, offering a feast for the senses at every corner. At the heart of the experience are pintxos - the small, beautifully crafted bites that line the counters of local bars and we might call tapas if we were further south or cicchetti in Venice. These small plates, often served on slices of bread and skewered with toothpicks, showcase a range of local flavours from traditional jamón and tortilla de patatas to more inventive creations using fresh seafood and local produce. The art of hopping between pintxo bars, sampling a little of everything, is a beloved pastime that brings the city's foodie scene to life.
But Bilbao’s cuisine goes beyond its famous pintxos. The Basque Country is known for its passion for food. Here, you’ll find hearty dishes like bacalao a la vizcaína - salted cod cooked in red pepper sauce - and chuletón, a large grilled steak. Pair these with a glass of txakoli, the region’s crisp, slightly fizzy white wine, and you’ll experience the true taste of Bilbao in a country where food is a way of celebrating life.
Bilbao is full of amazing restaurants including some with Michelin stars, and we’d highly recommend if you have the time, taking this food tour around the city. We actually ate twice at this somewhat unlikely looking restaurant in the middle of a shopping centre - it had great reviews, the food was local and delicious and also great value and very family friendly.
It was my birthday while we were in the city, and so that evening we met up with our lovely Australian friends (hi Rob and Heather!👋) for dinner at Toma y Daka, where we enjoyed tasty fish dishes and typical Basque service. For Michelin-starred food try La Despensa del Etxanobe or for something simple, you might enjoy Txakoli Simon. We can also highly recommend a visit to La Ribera and a mooch around the local fish stalls followed by pintxos upstairs in the food hall. Beautifully presented and also delicious.
shop
Shopping in Bilbao is a rich mixture of both traditional and modern, much like the city itself. For those looking to take a piece of the Basque Country home, the local markets and artisan shops are a treasure trove. One of the best places to start is Mercado de la Ribera, Europe’s largest covered market. Here, under its stained-glass windows, you'll find an array of local produce - from fresh seafood to regional cheeses, perfect for bringing the flavours of Bilbao back home if you can.
Beyond the markets, Bilbao’s independent boutiques and workshops are where you’ll uncover unique items crafted with the region’s unmistakable attention to detail. Leather goods, handcrafted jewellery and Basque textiles are all on offer, making for thoughtful, one-of-a-kind souvenirs. In Casco Viejo you can lose yourself in narrow streets lined with small shops where traditional espadrilles and locally woven scarves are perfect examples of Basque craftsmanship.
If you are looking for something more contemporary, Bilbao’s shopping scene also includes high-end fashion stores and design outlets. Whether you’re after a finely made leather handbag or a piece of cutting-edge homeware, the city offers something for every taste.
visit
Casco Viejo
Casco Viejo, Bilbao’s old town, is a maze of narrow Spanish streets and centuries-old buildings that transport you to the city’s fascinating past. Walking through the winding alleys, you’ll feel the pulse of history mixed with the vibrancy of daily life. This part of the city is brimming with character - from the traditional pintxo bars to small independent shops that have been serving locals for generations. As you wander, you’ll stumble upon hidden squares and lively corners, all while soaking in the unmistakable Basque charm that seems to infuse every cobblestone.
At the heart of Casco Viejo lies the Cathedral Basilica of Saint James, an impressive Gothic Cathedral that has been the symbol of Bilbao’s spiritual heritage since the 14th Century. Stepping inside, the quiet grandeur of the cathedral offers a moment of stillness amidst the hustle of the old town. Its soaring arches, intricate stonework, and peaceful chapels make it a place of reflection, whether you’re a pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago or a traveler seeking a deeper connection to the city.
The Guggenheim Museum
The Guggenheim Museum, with its shimmering titanium curves, is impossible to miss and as much a piece of art as anything inside. We’re not usually ones to spend hours in galleries or delve into modern art, but this museum is a must visit when in Bilbao. Designed by Frank Gehry, the building itself is a sculptural marvel, standing proudly on the banks of the Nervión River, and blending seamlessly with the city’s industrial past and artistic present. Once inside, we found ourselves unexpectedly intrigued. The exhibits, ranging from abstract sculptures to interactive installations, certainly challenged us, making us pause more than we’d expected.
While some pieces left us puzzled or even bemused, others sparked conversation and curiosity. One thing’s for sure - this wasn’t your typical museum visit, and we came away with a greater appreciation for the boldness and creativity of modern art, even if we wouldn’t usually seek it out. The Guggenheim managed to shift our perspective, if only for an afternoon, and for that, it’s definitely worth a visit, whether you’re a devoted art lover or just someone looking for a unique experience in Bilbao.
Puppy
Standing guard outside the Guggenheim Museum, Puppy is also impossible to miss - a giant, joyful terrier covered in thousands of vibrant flowers that bloom throughout the year. Created by artist Jeff Koons, Puppy brings a sense of lightness to the museum’s sleek, avant-garde exterior. Despite its playful appearance, it’s a striking contrast to the bold modern art inside, reminding us that creativity doesn’t always have to be serious to make an impact. We couldn’t help but smile as we took it in; Puppy feels like Bilbao’s way of welcoming visitors with open arms, or at least paws.
Bilbao in short - the highs and lows
Exploring on foot: After walking all the way from San Sebastián to Bilbao, our feet were feeling every step of the journey. Tired, inspired but sore, we didn’t do as much exploring of the city on foot as we normally might. The Camino de Santiago passes straight through Bilbao and while we took it easy this time around, we’ll definitely be back to pick up where we left off and walk the next stage from Bilbao to Santander before long.
Keeping it real: One thing that stood out in Bilbao itself was that the service wasn’t quite as friendly as we’d experienced in the smaller towns along the Camino. After days of warm welcomes and open conversations in the villages, the city felt a bit more impersonal. Perhaps it’s just the nature of a bigger city, where things move faster and people are a bit more rushed, but we definitely missed the slower, more relaxed hospitality we’d grown used to.
Memorable encounters: One of the highlights of our time in Bilbao was catching up with our friends Robert and Heather, whom we’d originally met on our first Camino. After walking part of the Camino del Norte with us, they joined us in the city for a rest day. Sitting in cozy pintxo bars, swapping stories of sore feet, steep climbs, and unexpected moments of joy on the trail, it reminded us of the real magic of the Camino - connecting with people who quickly feel like lifelong friends. Sharing Bilbao with them after the shared miles on the trail felt like a perfect way to end this chapter of our journey.
Sweet treats: Our favourite sweet treat that we couldn’t get enough of in Bilbao was Etxeko bixkotxa, or Basque cake. This simple dessert, with its buttery crust and creamy almond or custard filling, quickly became our go-to dessert when churros couldn’t be found.
questions about Bilbao?
Would you give Bilbao a try? Have you been before? We’d love to hear your thoughts! After all those miles, our feet definitely needed a break. If you’re planning your own Camino, feel free to reach out - we love sharing tips!
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Thanks Louise, very interesting. We are off later in the year for a tour of northern Spain, flying into Bilbao.
Louise- I love Basque architecture. Thanks for sharing these photo journals. Exactly that I was looking for for my research this week.