This is the first in a five-part series following the Camino del Norte as it wends its way along the northern coast of Spain from Donostia/San Sebastian to Bilbao. San Sebastian isn’t the official starting point of the Norte, which is Irun on the French border. We walked this first week of the Camino del Norte (Camino de Santiago) in April 2024. The weather was mixed, but more on that later.
Photo: San Sebastian, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
A little bit about the Camino del Norte
The Camino del Norte is part of a network of pilgrimage routes known as the Camino de Santiago that run across Spain and meet in Santiago de Compostela, the final resting place of Saint James the Apostle. But don’t be put off by the term pilgrimage. Whilst there are many people walking these routes for religious purposes, there are just as many who make the journey to improve their health, spend time on personal reflections or for other spiritual reasons. There are indeed as many reasons to walk the Camino de Santiago as there are people walking it.
Known as the Northern Camino, or sometimes the coastal Camino, the Norte route is 825km long in total, beginning in Irun and finishing in Santiago de Compostela. Along the way you will take in some of Spain’s most beautiful coastline and historic cities such as San Sebastian, Bilbao and Santander. You will also walk through some of Spain’s most culturally rich regions; Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia. If you’re from the United Kingdom, like us, then the Spain you might know is focused on the south - Andalucia, perhaps Madrid and also Barcelona. Do not discount northern Spain, it is truly beautiful.
Many believe that the Camino del Norte could be the oldest Camino in existence, at least as old, if not older then the Frances, having been used by pilgrims to travel to Santiago since Saint James’ tomb was first discovered in around 820AD.
Whilst the Camino Frances is currently the most popular Camino de Santiago route, as more and more pilgrims and walkers complete their journey they are looking to the other routes for more and so they in turn are becoming much more popular.
The Camino del Norte is some of the Camino’s most beautiful walking as well as some of it’s most challenging due to the steep ascents and descents between the coastal towns and villages. The first stages between San Sebastian and Bilbao in particular are known for their difficult terrain, but don’t be put off - take your time and if necessary split the days into shorter sections and go at a steadier pace.
Photo: Camino del Norte, from caminodesantiago.me
A note on how to get there
We arrived in San Sebastian (known as Donostia to the people of the Basque Country) from Bilbao having spent just over two hours on the local train. Whilst there is a bus that will take you to San Sebastian directly from the airport at Bilbao, our flight had arrived late the night before and we had chosen to spend a night in Bilbao before traveling onwards. It’s not obvious when you ask Google how to get to San Sebastian, but there are local trains running from Zazpikaleak-Casco Viejo station. For just nine euros (for the three of us) we were able to travel the two and a half hour journey through the hills that we would soon be walking back across. Trains run every hour, and stop every two minutes it would seem! You can buy tickets outside the station.
I’ll be sharing more about Donostia/San Sebastian and Bilbao in future posts for our Cities of the Camino series.
Fresh from a fish dinner in a marina-side restaurant followed by a night in San Sebastian, we were ready to take to the trails.
Photo: First official sign of the Camino, San Sebastian, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
The route
Setting out from San Sebastian early, the beach was still quiet with only a few brave early morning swimmers out catching the waves. With less sunbathers around Mark was able to fly the drone high above the beach whilst we picked up takeaway cafe con leches and pastries to fuel us on our way out of the town.
It’s not easy at first to find the Camino waymarkers coming out of San Sebastian, but if you keep to the water side with the beach to your right, you’ll eventually pick up the signs pointing up towards Monte Igeldo. It’s a relatively steep ascent out of town to start with but if you stop to look back every now and again, the views will be worth the effort.
Photo: Views over San Sebastian, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
Photo: Antiguo, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
As you turn your back on San Sebastian and the Cantabrian sea (for now) the countryside becomes lusher, greener and more farmed. Up here, you’ll transition to better marked footpaths and dirt roads and the slow continuous ascent marches on, weaving in and out of view of the blue seas below.
Photo: Barrio Igeldo, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
Unlike the Camino Frances which is generally well provisioned with plenty of cafes and tiendas, there aren’t any stops along the way until you reach Orio, which is 13.6km into the walk, so make sure you are well stocked with snacks and water for this stretch of your journey. From now on, the route is well-marked, following the predominantly wooden signs marked ‘Donejakue Bidea’ Camino de Santiago.
Photo: On route to Orio, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
We were ready for something to eat when we arrived in Orio, an important port town and pilgrimage stop. My high school history lessons flooded back to me as I read that in 1484 the Catholic monarchs of Spain, Ferdinand and Isabella, declared that pilgrims should be ferried across the River at Orio for no charge.
Photo: Orio, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
There are plenty of bustling cafes in Orio, so once you’ve refueled and filled your water bottles, turn left and cross the bridge, following the river back inland. You’ll turn left through a busy campervan and motorhome site alongside a small locals beach.
Photo: Orio, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
Once you leave Orio, you are almost at the end of your journey for today, with one more hill to climb before you descend into the beach town of Zarautz. Look out for the beautiful wooden waymarker on your way up the hill, and the donativo first aid box ready for the ailing pilgrim.
Photo: Almost in Zarautz, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
At the top of the hill you’ll find Gran Camping Zarautz, where we marvelled at the motorhome parking - imagine waking up to those sea views in the morning and watching the surfers with your coffee in hand.
The descent into Zarautz is long, but stunning, and you’ll soon find yourself in this busy, modern and affluent looking town full of campervans and surfers.
Zarautz has the appearance of a seaside resort, complete with golf course and the region’s longest strip of sandy white beach. A beach that was heaving on this sunny April Sunday afternoon. Historically important as a shipping and whaling town, Zarautz was also at the centre of the age of exploration and is where Magellan’s ship, La Vitoria, was built.
Ice cream is clearly popular here, with three to four different ice cream shops all near to each other and creating queues of people out the door and up the pavements.
Luckily for us, the blue skies lasted all afternoon so we took a dip in the sea before going back to our albergue to eat a picnic tea and get settled in for the night.
We had walked our first 19.2km of the Camino del Norte.
Where we stayed
The end of the first stage in Zarautz is very well served with accommodation and restaurants, as a popular town for tourists, pilgrims and surfers alike. We stayed in Blai Blai hostel, one of our favourite hostels so far on the Camino de Santiago. With twenty-four beds, this hostel was clean, had brilliant facilities, great staff and was very well laid out, feeling quiet and private even in the two dormitories. At 25 euros per person it wasn’t cheap, but very good value for money and we’d highly recommend this accommodation along the way. Staying in mid-April there were beds available, but we’d recommend you book ahead if you’re going in a busier season.
Questions about stage one of the Camino del Norte?
Ask away in the comments! Buen Camino! 👣
Photo: Sunset in San Sebastian, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
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