This is the final of our five-part series following the Camino del Norte as it wends its way along the northern coast of Spain from Donostia/San Sebastian to Bilbao. We walked this first week of the Camino del Norte (Camino de Santiago) in April 2024.
Photo: Gernika-Lumo, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
Our first Camino de Santiago in May 2022 took us on a 500-mile journey from St Jean Pied de Port in France to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. If you're curious about that adventure, you can find more reflections on it here.
This time around, our schedule was tighter due to work and family commitments, so we could only spare just over a week away, translating to just five days on the trail. As we reached the end of our journey in Bilbao, we were all saddened by its conclusion and eager to give our feet a well-deserved rest.
If you're new here (hello! 👋), you can catch up on our journey so far:
Have you ever embarked on a section of the Camino de Santiago? If so, where did you go? Is there a week-long section you'd recommend for others to walk? Let us know in the comments below.
The Route
Photo: Pozueta Auzoa, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
While our Australian friends split stage five of the Camino del Norte into two, opting to stop overnight in Lezama and walk a short 10km the next day into Bilbao, we decided to tackle the full 31.3km and enjoy an extra night's rest in Bilbao. Though it turned out to be a wise decision overall, it made for a challenging day on the Camino del Norte.
We've tackled 30km+ days before on the longer Camino Frances, but we hadn't fully accounted for the fact that the Norte offers a much more undulating route, especially when combined with the wet and muddy terrain from the Spring rains. Even setting off bright and early at 6am wasn't enough to ensure our arrival in Bilbao before 5pm, especially with the hills we had to conquer along the way.
Starting our day in Gernika, we were fortunate to stumble upon an open cafe serving hearty fresh pastries and takeaway cafe con leches, providing a much-needed boost for the journey ahead.
The day began damp once again, with our path leading us up an incredibly steep and muddy track, where foresters were actively at work, further complicating the already challenging terrain. Despite the obstacles, we pressed on, ascending into the clouds and gaining 300m of height above sea level in just the first 5km.
Photo: Near Morgaondo, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
We were relieved to reach Goikolexea, 16km into the day, where we found our first opportunity for a break. From there, the towns of Larrabetzu, Lezama, and Zamudio followed in quick succession, offering ample opportunities to pause and rejuvenate.
Photo: Somewhere on the Camino del Norte, Mark’s iPhone, April 2024
Our second break of the day came in a damp Larrabetzu, where we indulged in coffee and tortillas before hitting the road once more, passing through industrial neighborhoods until we reached Zamudio, where we decided to enjoy a late lunch with 10km left to go.
Photo: Larrabetzu, Mark’s iPhone, April 2024
By this point, the soles of my feet were aching, and my blisters were throbbing with pain, prompting us to stop at Cafetería Bar Bidegorri for a plate of patatas fritas and, yes, more cafe con leche. It took us a few days to wean ourselves off coffee upon our return.
Photo: Near Zamudio, Mark’s iPhone, April 2024
Our stop proved timely, as a brief but heavy rainstorm hit while we were eating. The final 10km were some of the toughest of the Camino for me. During our late lunch, I applied ibuprofen cream to my feet, loosened my shoelaces, and took some paracetamol in an attempt to ease the pain. It definitely helped, but the ascent up Monte Avril after Zamudio was still a challenge.
The effort was rewarded with stunning views as we looked back and ahead over the city of Bilbao.
Photo: Monte Avril, views over Bilbao, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
At the top of Monte Avril, we found another beautiful Spanish picnic area with plenty of tables, seating, and a large children's play area. Eager to reach our destination, we only rested briefly before continuing on. The final descent into Bilbao was both punishing and beautiful, with the sun breaking through the clouds and illuminating our path as we made our way into the city.
As we arrived in Bilbao, we encountered the longest set of steps down into the old town, Casco Viejo. My feet were aching so badly at this point that I opted to remove my shoes and complete the final steps in Megan's sandals, tears streaming down my face. Those shoes, which had carried me 500 miles across the Camino Frances two years prior, were left behind in Bilbao airport as we journeyed back to the UK.
I’ll be buying some new trail shoes before we embark on our next long distance walk later this year. Can you recommend any brands? Let me know in the comments! 👣
Photo: Views over Bilbao, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
Where we stayed
Whilst our friends were stopping in Lezama and then taking the shorter trail into Bilbao the next day, we decided to walk the full stage and have an extra night in Bilbao with two full rest days before we travelled home to the UK.
We booked this gorgeous little Airbnb apartment right in the centre of Casco Viejo, the delightful old town of Bilbao, surrounded by bars, restaurants and coffee shops and within a short walk of the new town and Guggenheim Museum. With two bedrooms, a kitchen, spacious living area and two little balconies, the apartment was the perfect spot to unwind, rest our weary legs and spread out a little bit.
Better still, my teenager could shut the door and have some time to themselves after spending so many days walking and sharing rooms with us!
Photo: Tired feet in Bilbao, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
Have you walked the Camino del Norte?
Or are you planning to walk it this year? Tell us about your experiences and plans in the comments! Buen Camino! 👣
Photo: Three sets of muddy shoes, Lezama, Louise’s iPhone, April 2024
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