Vienna, Austria
where to stay, where to eat, what to do
There's something magical about Vienna in September – even as Storm Boris drenched the city, the rain-soaked streets and cozy coffee shops made it feel like a city waiting to be explored without the rush of the Summer.
We visited the grand capital of Austria with the same friends we’d traveled to Istanbul with last year. It felt fitting – two iconic cities, once the mighty bookends of a vast empire, each steeped in history and culture. Where Istanbul pulses with ancient energy and vibrancy, Vienna offers a quieter, more regal charm that invites reflection. Both cities hold echoes of their empires, but Vienna’s allure lies in its elegance and calm.
Vienna is a city that feels timeless, where every grand building and quiet side street seems to whisper stories from centuries past. Known for its imperial palaces, world-class art, and a café culture that invites you to slow down and enjoy the Sacher-Torte, it’s a place where history isn’t just preserved – it’s alive, woven into the very fabric of daily life. Whether you're wandering the elegant boulevards or losing yourself in the art of the museums, Vienna has a way of drawing you into its rhythm.
Despite the incessant rain, we made the most of our time, managing to explore a few key sights and tuck into some memorable meals. If you’re planning a trip to Vienna, these are some of our favourite spots – tried and tested, and well worth adding to your list.
sleep
We stayed in this cosy two-bedroom Airbnb on Hofmanngasse, just a five-minute stroll from Michelbeuern AKH station on the U6 underground. Skipping the pricey express train from Vienna International Airport, we opted for the regular service – just a few euros each – and, with some helpful advice from our local contact Richard (more on him later), we navigated the busy metro with ease, arriving at our apartment in under 45 minutes despite it being rush hour.
The apartment was perfect for the four of us, with space for six if needed, and had everything to make it feel like home. Just around the corner was a small bäckerei, open until 9pm, serving fresh bread and borek. And within minutes round the corner we found ourselves tucked into Café Schopenhauer, a traditional Viennese café offering good value coffee and a delicious breakfast.
eat
Vienna’s café culture is legendary, and for good reason. These aren’t just places to grab a quick coffee – they’re institutions, where time seems to slow down and conversation flows as freely as the Wiener Melange. The traditional Viennese café is all about atmosphere: marble-topped tables, worn wooden chairs, and the soft hum of life happening around you. It’s where locals and visitors alike can spend hours reading the newspaper or simply watching the world go by, all while enjoying a perfectly brewed coffee and a slice of something sweet.
While we adored Café Schopenhauer – not least for its charming bookshop and close proximity to our Airbnb – it wouldn’t have been right not to explore a few more. When Schopenhauer was fully booked (do be sure to reserve a table), Café Weimar welcomed us with another delicious breakfast. And for the quintessential Sacher-Torte experience, Café Sperl, near the Naschmarkt, is a must. Here, you can linger over lunch, play billiards, and enjoy live piano music. We followed a lovely lunch with afternoon tea – complete with torte and Irish coffee – and it didn’t disappoint.
No trip to Vienna would be complete without visiting Café Landtmann, one of the city’s oldest and most beautiful coffee houses. Its elegant conservatory is the perfect refuge on a rainy, blustery day. For comparison’s sake, I sampled the Sacher-Torte here too, and while Café Sperl’s won the day for me, the other desserts at Landtmann were simply incredible.
But enough about the sweets – let’s talk dinner. On our first night in Vienna, we tucked into a delicious pork schnitzel at Braubar, though we found the Wiener Schnitzel didn’t quite hit the mark. What did stand out, however, was our discovery of Kaiserschmarrn – fluffy, shredded pancakes dusted with icing sugar and served with fruit purée. The version at Braubar was like cake, which we loved, but when we tried it again at Café Landtmann, it was doughier, more like a traditional pancake.
Another favourite spot, recommended by a local, was Lugeck. Owned by the same family as Figlmüller (the famed home of Vienna’s most iconic schnitzel), Lugeck offers a calmer, more local vibe. Nestled in the city centre near the Cathedral, it boasts ample outdoor seating for warmer weather. We can personally recommend the Viennese deep-fried chicken with potato salad, the veggie burgers (a welcome break from all the meat), and the sweet cream strudel – so good, in fact, that we returned the next day for our final group dinner of the trip.
shop
With our bellies full from Vienna’s cafés, we couldn’t resist wandering into some of the city’s shops in search of the perfect gifts – for ourselves and our families back home.
Vienna’s streets are filled with charming boutiques and artisanal shops, offering everything from traditional Austrian toys to beautifully crafted stationery. But, unsurprisingly, most of our purchases ended up being food-related.
One rainy afternoon, when our plans to visit the Belvedere galleries were thwarted by sold-out tickets, we discovered that Vienna has its own brand of champagne. We made our way to the Schlumberger Sparkling Wine Cellars, where it’s possible to tour the historic cellars, learn how their sparkling wine is made, and, of course, pick up a few bottles of this delicious Austrian champagne to bring home.
We also indulged in some window shopping over the tempting cakes and pastries at Café Landtmann, and explored the touristy trinkets at the Wiener Opera shop, where the opera-themed souvenirs made for fun browsing.
visit
Our visit to Vienna coincided with Storm Boris, which wreaked havoc across central and eastern Europe, causing once-in-5,000-year flooding around the outskirts of Vienna. While the storm kept us indoors more than we’d planned, it gave us the chance to spend extra time in Vienna’s coffeehouses and explore some truly fascinating places – all of which we highly recommend.
Vienna Greeters
Whenever we visit a new city, we love to join a local tour, especially a food tour. This time, though, I found the food tours surprisingly expensive. After a bit of digging online, I stumbled across a wonderful group called the Vienna Greeters. This voluntary organisation connects visitors with local guides for private city tours, completely free of charge. You simply submit your details, share a bit about yourself, and when you’re visiting, and they match you with a guide. It’s an incredible concept – one we haven’t found anywhere else yet. The guides tailor the experience to your interests, and while there’s no expectation of tips, you can donate via their website to support the organisation if you wish to.
Our guide, Richard, was a Canadian who’d lived in Vienna for many years with his Austrian wife. He was full of fascinating insights, both about the city and his own experiences, making our somewhat soggy morning a delight despite the weather.
Vienna Museum
It was Richard who introduced us to the Vienna Museum, and it turned out to be the perfect escape from the rain. We spent an hour wandering through the exhibits, sipping coffee in the rooftop café with its lovely views, and enjoying the warmth. We liked it so much that we returned the next day to take a deeper dive into the rest of the collection and shelter from the storm a little longer.
The museum’s permanent exhibition, Vienna. My History, takes you on a chronological journey through the city's past, from its earliest settlements to the present day. Across three floors, we discovered highlights such as the five-metre-high model of St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Gustav Klimt’s famous portrait of Emilie Flöge, and even the museum’s mascot, Poldi – a ten-metre-long whale from the Prater. And the best part? Admission is completely free.
Schlumberger Sparkling Wine Cellar
On a whim, we also found ourselves at the Schlumberger Sparkling Wine Cellar, and it turned out to be one of the trip’s unexpected highlights. Here, in the enchanting labyrinth of cellar vaults designed by the engineering mastermind Carl Ritter von Ghega, we discovered Austria’s oldest and largest sparkling wine cellar. The cellars are steeped in history, filled with countless bottles of their famed sparkling wine, often referred to as liquid gold.
The 30 to 45 minute tour guides you through the entire process of making sparkling wine, from the grape to the glass. You even get the chance to try your hand at hand-riddling the bottles on traditional wooden racks, learning the secrets behind disgorging and dosage. After the tour, we sampled a range of Schlumberger’s sparkling wines at the bar.
Schonnbrunn Palace Concert
No visit to Vienna would be complete without an evening of classical music, and the Schönnbrunn Palace Concert was the perfect way to end our trip. Set in the Orangery or one of the grand palace rooms, where Mozart himself performed in 1786, the concert offers a selection of masterful works by both Mozart and Strauss, enhanced by stunning vocal performances.
The daily concerts have become a cultural fixture in Vienna, with the Schönnbrunn Palace Orchestra and Ensemble playing the most beautiful pieces from these iconic composers. Before the concert, you can also take a private tour of the palace, ending in the breathtaking Great Gallery, a space fit for royalty. The evening felt like stepping back in time, a true immersion into the elegance and grandeur of Vienna’s musical heritage.
in short - the highs and lows
As our trip came to an end, here are a few final thoughts on what made Vienna unforgettable, and the lessons we learned for next time.
Exploring on foot: Although I still managed to hit my move goals, we didn’t walk nearly as much as we usually would on a city break, thanks to the weather. That said, our walking tour with Richard, though shorter than planned, still covered most of Vienna’s key sights. I’d highly recommend Vienna Greeters – it’s a wonderful initiative, and I hope more cities follow suit.
Keeping it real: If your perception of Austria is shaped by The Sound of Music rather than Mozart, Vienna might come as a bit of a surprise. Instead of chocolate-box alpine beauty, Vienna impresses with grand, imperial scale – think more Paris than Salzburg. Friends and family who had visited before told me not to expect an alpine wonderland, so I wasn’t disappointed. It’s worth noting that Vienna’s architecture is stately and modern rather than quaint or rustic.
Memorable encounters: We love to people-watch, and Vienna’s café culture is perfect for that. Two encounters, in particular, stayed with me. Every morning at Cafe Schopenhauer, we’d spot the same gentleman, sitting at 9 a.m. sharp with a beer in hand, a cigarette, and a newspaper. I couldn’t help but wonder about his story. Then there was the elegantly dressed older lady with striking red nail polish at the next table in Cafe Sperl. As it turned out, she and her late husband had owned the café since the 1960s. Monika shared with us the challenges, costs, and joys of running a Viennese café – a fascinating conversation.
Sweet treats: Vienna is truly the home of sweet indulgences, from Apfelstrudel and Sacher-Torte to Kaiserschmarrn. Needless to say, I’ll be back on the no-sugar wagon now that we’re home!
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💚 Following publishing this piece, the lovely Richard from Vienna Greeters got in touch with me to let me know that there is in fact an International Greeters association and many branches across the world! Here's the link: https://internationalgreeter.org/ We will definitely be checking this website for future trips!